Saturday, December 19

getting around

International travel continues to surprise me. Not only are the differences from my routines so astonishing, but so too are the unexpected similarities. The recent trip to Colombia reminded me how nicely I've insulated myself within my native language. What startled me was how varied the voices were among those who grew up speaking Colombian Spanish. There was husky voices and grating voices, some were high and a few were low. Also the homes we visited had subtle architectural features. Our friends' condo had open transoms over every door and tiled floors left uncovered. The combined effect was a happy home as laughter bounced off the walls, up and down the stairs, and into every room. Another house was openly framed with huge sections of local bamboo, a response to environmental issues by using local materials.
Despite the contrasts, one similarity between cities in Colombia, China and South Africa in the varieties of transportation found on the roads. All three have a higher proportion of buses and taxis than I typically see in the USA. But there are also two-wheeled wooden carts pulled by hand, large luxury SUVs, and a range of motor scooters. Unique to Colombia was that there were at least three tiers of motorcycles. While cars tended to remain in their designated lanes, cycles and scooters would fill any and all interstitial spaces. When the traffic signals turn green, vehicles sort and segregate according to horsepower: mopeds watch as they lose pole position to motorcycles and sports cars. Finally, I can report that domestic airports in Colombia are as casual as very nice American train stations. Stroll in the door, throw down a few thousand pesos and you can be in the air to another gorgeous location with very little hassle.
So many other images and so much additional information fills my head that I can't imagine how to organize and present it. We saw giant bronze sculptures of chubby people, rode a tramway over two mountains under which were tin shacks, and ate a meal that consisted of 20 "moments" several of which relied upon liquid nitrogen as part of the effect. But most stunning of all was a tiny town in the lush valleys of central Colombia. I hesitate to write about it for fear of disclosing its existence. There are inexpensive rooms to be rented and wondrous coffees to be consumed. I took pictures but they don't do justice to the glories it holds. It's best left to direct experience. Make your way past the shops and eateries, ascend the stairs, and its just over the hill past the guy offering cervezas from a cooler at the crest. Coffee bushes, palm trees, bubbling brooks and inviting trails. Since the weather is so consistent just 4°N it doesn't matter what time of year to go. Not a matter of if but simply when.